Chased by Sea Lions in Puerto Montt

The bus from Bariloche to Puerto Montt climbed up and over Paso Cardenal Antonio Samoré with impressive rock walls flanking us on both sides and Volcán Osorno dramatically revealing itself half way down.

Arriving in Puerto Montt, Google Maps failed us for the first time this trip making us wait 30mins for a bus that supposedly came by every 10mins. After trying a second bus stop and watching every bus except the 1A come by, we resorted to Uber. How hopeless we would have been 20 years ago!

We arrived at our AirBnb to an aggressive dog but friendly family. With a number of other short comings, this was not our most pleasant stay. We only had 2 nights booked though, spending the full day in between out amongst the city.

We walked the waterfront in both directions and ended up at a fish market where a few resident sea lions were playing in the water below.

During our time here, 2 of said residents climbed the stairs up into the market! Naturally a crowd formed in awe of these creatures with some brave souls attempting to pat them. As our confidence grew we edged closer and closer until it seems we got a little too close. The larger of the two lead the charge as they mobilised and chased us through the crowd.

We arrived in Castro on Chiloé Island the next day and spent the evening and following day exploring the town. Our AirBnb here was a stark contrast to the one in Puerto Montt with top notch facilities and well kept rooms.

On our second full day here, we headed to Dalcahue as it was noted for its food and stilt houses. We didn’t stay long though as Castro in our opinion bested it on both fronts. It was a very pleasant and scenic town nonetheless.

Puerto Varas was next on the itinerary with a gentle stroll on arrival to ease us in. At this stage we were becoming weary that although 6 months sounded a long time, time was passing us by quickly (and money efficiently escaping our pockets). We chose only 2 full days here without any down days, just enough for a walk (halfway) up Osorno and a bike to Frutillar.

Our approach up Osorno began with a bus to Petrohué followed by a walk to Mirador La Picada. A picturesque track with views in every direction though the blood sucking Tábanos were horrendous. Imagine a fly twice the size of an NZ house fly, with a needle mouth multiple millimeters long. These things feed on your blood like a sandfly, come in swarms of hundreds, bite through your clothes, and return without hesitation after a swat with good connection.

Apparently the Air Marshal is the most efficient and effective method.

With the sun high and water stunningly clear, we decided to head back along the beach with a dip and read on the cards. Our hopes were spoiled though as the tábanos only increased in numbers on the lakefront. We instead had to swim only in our minds, taking in the views on the move.

That evening we treated ourselves to a pizza and beer at Mesa Tropera which we had seen recommended on a number of blogs. It did not disappoint! After enjoying (and paying for) the meal, we rushed out the door and ran down the street to catch the sunset from La Puntilla.

We spent our second and final day in Puerto Varas biking to Frutillar for a swim and some cake. The ride was scenic although tough for our un-bike-fit legs. The cake lived up to the hype (though we forgot to take a pic!) 

The following morning we were off to Pucon.

Lucas

Jan 24, 2025