Lagunas & Glaciers in Ushuaia

Lagunas & Glaciers in Ushuaia
Approaching our campsite at Laguna del Caminante.

5 days at Fin del Mundo (End of the World) and we left yearning for more. Mountains and glaciers every direction you look with lagunas nestled in between. The hiking options are endless. Mostly though, I was just stoked to dust off the tent I’ve been lugging around and put it to use!

We started off with Martial Glacier, the closest track to town and walkable from our AirBnb. A pleasant track up though lacking a glacier.

Pleasant hike but no sign of a glacier here!
Best view proved to be down the valley to Ushuaia.

On day 2 we set out for Senda Costera to soon discover it was only accessible with a 40,000ARS (70NZD) Tierra del Fuego National Park entry pass. Not for our shoestring budget.

With half the day gone, Kenzie set about the city for the afternoon while I set off on an alternate coastal track to Estancia Túnel (free), walking past the city on route to the start.

The rugged surroundings of Ushuaia command attention from every direction.

The track starts near Playa Larga (Long Beach) just beyond the industrial area of Ushuaia, and follows the coast for 4km.

Looking back towards Ushuaia.
An easy undulating track with scenics and wildlife the whole way.
There was no tunnel, instead a picturesque farm station.

A somewhat last minute decision saw us heading for Laguna del Caminante the following day with sleeping mats and a tent in our packs.

We started at Andorra walking through farm land.
Simple materials, elaborate design.
Alpine meadows cover the slopes.
Laguna del Caminante.
A late lakeside dinner with no shortage of sunlight.

On arrival we sat down for our afternoon coffee to realise we didn’t have a lighter! Luckily another couple appeared at the campsite in time for dinner who spared us a spark and allowed us a warm meal. Note to self: get a lighter.

It was a cold night and early start (by Argentinian standards) the next day over the pass before following the side of the valley back down to Ushuaia. A small detour would have taken us to Cañadon de la Oveja Cave Entrance if we hadn’t missed the turn off! Guess we’ll have to come back.

The one and only river crossing ensured we had wet shoes 200m into our day.
Misty view down to Andorra on the left, keeping right today.
The valley down to Ushuaia after crossing the pass and missing the cave turn off.
Out the end, looking back.

Laguna Esmeralda was our target on Day 5 at the Fin del Mundo. We hitch-hiked out with an Italian couple discussing their thoughts on Argentinian pizza and pasta (they didn’t come for the food).

Kenzie below Esmeralda, following the river up.
The money shot of Laguna Esmeralda.
Kenzie at the high point of our walk.

Another hitch-hike and a shower later we were eating choripans for dinner (again), off early the next morning on a 12hr bus to Punta Arenas. Puerto Natales in our sights, our gateway to Torres del Paine.

Links & Lessons Learned

Ushuaia

  • Hard to get a Sube card here, grab one in Buenos Aires if you can. I think you can get them at the Municipalidad though.
  • Tierra del Fuego National Park is located west of the city and costs 45000ARS per person for a days entry. Everywhere else is free!

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