Touchdown in Buenos Aires

Touchdown in Buenos Aires
The colourful houses of La Boca, originally built from dismantled ships.

Just as everyone had told me but I refused to believe, my hard earned Duolingo streak provided no utility in the real world. Especially here in Argentina where spanish is not the same as that spoken in Spain. Ordering meals inevitably becomes a finger pointing exercise, navigating ferry terminals one of following the crowd.

Invariably we get things wrong. But that’s the beauty of being unemployed and living out of a backpack. Time is on your side so you can always try again.

During our first few days, we spent that time mostly roaming the streets of Buenos Aires, missing buses and paying double fares.

Bustling streets nearby the Jardín Botánico.
A noticeable change in architecture and cleanliness outside the city centre.
National and regional flags fly high at the Banco De La Provincia De Buenos Aires.

On our third day we ventured a little further and tried our luck on the train to Tigre.

Boats, boats, and more boats.
Ocean rowing skiffs used here for transport not sport.

In Tigre we wandered our way down the river to stumble upon a very grand building with impressive detail in its finishing: Museo de Arte Tigre.

1900ARS (NZ$3.50) for entry. We um’d and ah’d whether it deserved our precious rupees and eventually deemed it worthy. The ticket lady wouldn’t take the cash we offered though. “Es gratis!” It was free! Now it was definitely worthy.

Inside were many striking paintings. Some modern, some ancient. All using vivid colour and light in intriguing ways. 

Kenzie’s favourite from circa 1840.

The following day we set out to the Museo Nacional del Cabildo de Buenos Aires y de la Revolución de Mayo but were cut off by a protest. We detoured via an atm to let them pass before trying again 2 hours later (turns out getting cash in Argentina is no small feat). The second attempt was no more fruitful though as our destination appeared to also be theirs. With flares popping over of heads, we decided to retreat back to our hostel and try again later.

We did eventually make it that day with a tango lesson and pub crawl both hosted by our hostel to fill the evening.

La Boca was the goal the following day with a lot more success (and a tour guide). We learnt of the area‘s rich history and fierce fútbol rivalry.

La Boca’s colour originally came from mismatched pieces of dismantled ships.
The suburb is one of the poorest and most dangerous in Buenos Aires (outside of the tourist streets).
The white hoods signify the Mothers of Plaza de Mayo who’s children disappeared under government command during 1976-77.

For lunch we had some tasty and good value churipans at a place “where the locals eat” according to our hostel host. For dinner we had a Menu de la Día inside San Telmo market followed by a walk to Plaza Dorrego to watch some tango (for free).

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Public tango at Plaza Dorrego.

The next morning, we made out for the ferry over to Uruguay. 🇺🇾

Links & Lessons Learned

Buenos Aires

  • America Del Sur Hostel is where we stayed most of our time in Buenos Aires. It is a tidy, social, and cost effective hostel great for those interested in activities other than drinking.
  • Plaza Dorrego in Buenos Aires is where we saw tango in the street (free / tips only).
  • La Parri in Buenos is “where the locals go” and where we had cheap churis (and even cheaper beers).

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